

In 1971, American Norman Dyhrenfurth led an expedition of 30 climbers from 13 different countries, including Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Naomi Uemura, Pierre Mazeaud, Michel Vaucher, and others. This expedition aimed to simultaneously climb the southwest face and the direct west ridge. During the ascent, Indian climber Harsh Vardhan Bahuguna perished at Camp 3 in a storm. The expedition, already suffering from organizational problems, was severely tested after his death. The Americans decided, unilaterally, to abandon the west ridge. The Europeans, who had spent days equipping the route, were left out and felt relegated to the roles of route setters and porters. Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud, Swiss climbers Michel and Yvette Vaucher, and Italian Carlo Mauri then left the expedition. The Americans continued their ascent of the southwest face up to 8,350 meters before giving up.

Norman Dyhrenfurth

Michel Vaucher

Yvette Vaucher

Pierre Mazeaud

Carlo Mauri

Don Whillans

Harsh Vardhan Bahuguna

Paul Scofield

Wolfgang Axt

Odd Eliassen

Duane Blume

Arthur Chesterman

John Cleare

Gary Colliver

Dougal Haston

Toni Hiebeler

Jane Howell

David F. Isles

Reizo Itoh

Ned Kelly

Bill Kurban

Dave Peterson

Murray Sayle

Leo Schlömmer

Peter Steele

Ian Stuart

Jerzy Surdel

Jon Teigland

Naomi Uemura

Anthony Thomas

Jimmy Roberts

John Evans